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Posts tagged with Jewelry Auction

Blue Velvet: The Myth of the Kashmir Sapphires

October 15, 2012

Amy Lin of Saffronart explores the significance of the Kashmir sapphire in this month’s auction of Fine Jewels & Watches

Lot 25: AN UNMOUNTED NATURAL KASHMIR SAPPHIRE
A cushion-shaped modified brilliant and modified step cut sapphire, weighing 11.15 carats
Auction of Fine Jewels & Watches (OCT 30-31, 2012)

New York: At 11,000 feet above sea level, miners risk dangerous situations to procure one of the most precious gemstones in the world, the Kashmir sapphire. Kashmir sapphires retain a brilliant, dreamlike blue colour that captivated the hearts of kings and civilians alike. Some call these stones ‘blue velvet’, while others simply know them as the rarest sapphires in the world.

We are proud to feature a magnificent 11.15 carat Kashmir sapphire in this month’s auction of Fine Jewels & Watches. The gem is cushion shaped, with step cuts that illuminate its radiance. Its un-mounted nature allows designers and jewelry lovers countless ways in which to set it in a unique ring, brooch or pendant.

Sapphires are part of the mineral corundum family, and carry traces of aluminum oxide. Although they come in different colours, the most famous and sought after are blue sapphires that carry hints of titanium. Besides their brilliance, sapphires are extremely resilient, placing them second only to diamonds on the Mohs Hardness Scale. The value of sapphires is determined by their colour, purity, reflection and size.

The Maharaja of Jammu and Kashmir, late 19th century
Photographer: Deen Dayal
Image Credit: http://www.oldindianphotos.in/2012/02/maharaja-of-jammu-and-kashmir-late-19th.html

Sapphires were first discovered in Kashmir in the 1880s, when a landslide revealed a mineral deposit of exceptional quality and size. The British Indian geologist F.R. Mallet was hired to indentify the stones, which turned out to be sapphires like no other. He recorded his discovery in the Manual of Indian Geology at the Indian Museum. Upon hearing about the blue gems in his region, the Maharaja of Kashmir sent troops to secure the mines but allowed his subjects to keep the ones previously extracted. From 1882 to 1887, Kashmir flourished as riches spilled into the kingdom.

Before long, heavy mining led to the decline of profits and the depletion of resources.  Although evacuations have been led to find other mines, none could rival the quality of the first. In modern times, the Indian Himalayas have seen a lot of guerilla warfare. Therefore, whether additional deposits of Kashmir sapphires are still hidden underground is a matter of speculation. It is without a doubt that the sapphires from Kashmir’s early mining days are the best in the world in terms of their colour and size. Their unique, intertwining crystals give them a hazy, hypnotic quality that evokes dreams and mysticism. Because of their short mining debut, they are one of the rarest gems in the world, making them a true collector’s item.

Indo-Deco and Viren Bhagat: A Brief Look at Art Deco in Indian Design

October 9, 2012

Amy Lin of Saffronart explores one of the facets of the role Art Deco continues to play in Indian design

New York: Contemporary jewelry designer Viren Bhagat draws on India’s past in his work and fuses Art Deco with traditional Indian designs. Recently the subject of an in-depth Vanity Fair profile, and featured in prestigious boutiques like F.D. or Fiona Druckenmiller in Manhattan, Bhagat’s pieces combine various design influences, including the clean lines of Art Deco and the dramatic flair of Mughal motifs. This enchanting diamond, ruby and natural pearl brooch for example, beautifully combines immaculate diagonals and flat diamonds with floral arabesques and a teardrop tassel.

Diamond, Ruby and Natural Pearl Brooch by Viren Bhagat
Image Credit: http://wwww.worldwatchweb.com/Picture-459-6-BROOCHES.html

In a New York Times interview, Drunkenmiller describes Mr. Bhagat’s works as “sumptuous, elegant, (and) romantic…He only uses the best stones, drawing inspiration from traditional Mogul design, but adding touches that are contemporary and uniquely his own.” But where does the idea for Bhagat’s hybrid come from?

Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan building, a fine example of the Deco-Saracenic style in Mumbai.
Image Credit: http://www.frontlineonnet.com/fl2608/stories/20090424260806600.htm

As it turns out, Art Deco is an important component of India’s artistic heritage. Following Miami, Mumbai has the greatest number of Art Deco buildings in the world, located in not one, but two distinct Deco precincts. The style called Deco-Saracenic, which fuses Art Deco with Hindu and Islamic aesthetics, is unique to India. Strong, sleek lines are interwoven with sensuous curves in both architecture and the decorative arts. The Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan building is a fine example of the Deco-Saracenic style, where geometric exteriors are rounded off with stylized domes. Such Deco trends in Mumbai came shortly after the First World War, when elegance and modernity became driving forces in Indian society.

A Natural Pearl and Diamond Ring, by Viren Bhagat
Image Credit: http://pinterest.com/pin/36028865739238093/

Viren Bhagat gives the idea of Deco-Saracenic a contemporary twist by applying it tojewelry. Bhagat’s one of kind ring, pictured below, dons a whimsical Mughal crown and springs to a life of its own, recalling past glories. Another pair of floral earrings, also pictured below, combines geometric shapes with ingenuity, using un-faceted diamonds.

In the coming weeks, Saffronart will also celebrate India’s jewelry and Art Deco heritages through its annual Autumn Auction of Fine Jewels and Watches and its inaugural Art Deco auction featuring furniture, silver, crystal, lighting and more.

A Walk Through of Exhibitions of Indian Silverware Worldwide from the 1850s to the Present

September 27, 2012

Elisabetta Marabotto of Saffronart on some of the main exhibitions of Indian silverware that have taken place around the world

Sugar Bowl and cover, Oomersi Mawji, Bhuj, ca. 1880

Tea Set, Oomersi Mawji, Bhuj, ca. 1880; Image credit: Victoria & Albert Museum, http://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O140168/sugar-bowl-and-mawji-oomersi/

In conjunction with the Silver exhibit at Saffronart Delhi, the Saffronart blog is publishing articles on the history of silver and its international popularity. Similar pieces can be viewed on our website.

London: Indian silverware is renowned worldwide for its beauty, design and quality. The first time Indian silverware and other artifacts from the subcontinent were exhibited in Europe was in 1851, at the Great Exhibition in Hyde Park, London, in the “Indian court” space. The great success of this exhibition and the popularity of Indian silver led Liberty and Co. of Regent Street and Proctor and Co. of Oxford Street to create their own workshops in India. The response to the exhibition also prompted the construction of a space where these objects could be displayed permanently. Thus, the Museum of Manufactures was built in Marlborough House, London, especially designed to educate people in art and design. Later it became known as the South Kensington Museum, and today, is named the Victoria and Albert Museum.

Some years later, in 1883, the Calcutta International Exhibition was held in the Indian Museum. It was the first exhibition of this genre, dedicated to arts and crafts from India. The show was opened by H.E. Lord Ripon, the Viceroy of India, in the presence of Queen Victoria and the Duke and Duchess of Connaught. More information about this exhibition can be found here.

In 1903, on the occasion of the Grand Durbar celebrating the coronation of King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra as Emperor and Empress of India, the assembly waiting for the royals to arrive in Delhi organized an incredible exhibition of jewelry and every Indian prince present at the ceremony was adorned with magnificent gems.

Claret jug made by Oomersee Mawjee, Kutch, c. 1890

Claret jug made by Oomersee Mawjee, Kutch, c. 1890; Image Credit: http://www.themagazine
antiques.com/articles/indian-silve
r-for-the-raj/

Much more recently, in July 2007, Wynard Wilkinson, a British specialist in antique Indian silverware, organized an exhibition displaying more than 400 items. These were made during the three ruling regimes in India (Mughal, neoclassical Georgian and British Raj) and reflected the taste of their patrons.

According to Wilkinson “India’s long and tumultuous history is arguably nowhere better reflected than in silver objects produced to the order of those who once ruled the vast subcontinent. My July exhibition began with items designed to appeal to the sybaritic tastes of the Mughal emperors who controlled India from the sixteenth to the mid-nineteenth centuries. The next group of objects reflected the neoclassical ‘Georgian’ restraint that was favored by the first generations of European merchants and soldiers who arrived under the auspices of the East India Company. The last group consisted of objects produced during the British Raj, the style of which is truly indigenous.”

Wilkinson in this exhibition mainly focused on functional objects and tableware. Look here for more information.

The following year, Vidya Dehejia curated an exhibition at Columbia University’s Miriam & Ira D. Wallach Art Gallery titled “Delight in Design, Indian Silver from the Raj”, focusing only on Indian silverware produced during the Raj period (1858-1947).

Detail of Water jug featuring the Descent of the Ganges, Calcutta, ca 1885

Detail of Water jug featuring the Descent of the Ganges, Calcutta, ca 1885; Image Credit: http://www.columbia.edu/cu/wallach/exhibitions/
Delight-in-Design/credits.html

Raj silverware is characterized by the adoption of European shapes and purposes, but retains innate Indian patterns and decorations. In fact, Indian silversmiths had to satisfy the increasing demand for silver objects from European customers. Some of the most common objects produced during the period were tea sets, goblets, beer mugs, claret jugs and so on. Interestingly, every part of the country was characterized by a different decorative style that mirrored local tastes and traditions. For example, silverware from Kutch would often be quite heavily decorated. Some of the recurrent designs were snake-shaped handles and elephant trunk-shaped spouts. On the other hand figures of Gods and Swamis are often present as decorative elements in silver objects from Madras. This is why the silver from this region is often referred to as Swami.  Lastly Calcutta’s silverware usually bears rural scenes decorations.

The most refined works of silver were made during the Raj Period, and some of the most popular firms were P. Orr and Sons of Madras and Oomersee Mawjee of Kutch. More information about this exhibition and the different local styles of the Raj period can be found here.

Finally, the Virginia Museum of Fine Arts is currently hosting (until February 2013) the exhibition, ‘Indian Silver for the Raj’. This show presents the VMFA’s latest Indian silver acquisitions. The exhibition is divided in two parts.

Five Piece Tea Service, P. Orr & Sons, Madras, 1876

Five Piece Tea Service, P. Orr & Sons, Madras, 1876, Image Credits: http://www.vmfa.state.va.us/indian-silver/

The first part focuses on the fusion of Indian and British culture through silver making. Thus, as a material example of this blending, calling card-cases, rosewater sprinklers and tea sets are exhibited. The second part of the exhibition focuses on the different regional styles of Raj silver.

This showcase aims to highlight the similarities yet originality within the Raj period silver, perhaps the most successful era of silver making.

Tours of the exhibition will be organized twice in October. More information on the exhibition and associated events

Apart from temporary exhibition, pieces of Indian silver can also be appreciated in the permanent collections of several museums around the globe. Some of the best works can be viewed at the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, the Musee Guimet in Paris, and at Harvard University’s Arthur M. Sackler Museum in Boston. If you happen to be in any of these locations I would highly recommend a visit to these institutions to view and enjoy these extraordinary objects.

India’s Glittering Past: From the Tavernier Blue to the Hope Diamond

July 12, 2012

Amit Kapoor of Saffronart on some of India’s most famous precious stones and jewels

In my last blog post, I spoke about the ‘rich India’ of the past and its noble treasures. Some of the famous diamonds that have originated in India include the Hope Diamond, the Kohinoor, the Darya-i-Noor, and the Dresden Green, to name but a few.

Almost all of these stones were owned or were in the possession of the wealthy and elite classes, most often emperors and nobles. Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, a French national who used to travel to India frequently during 16th century, documented and traded some of these precious jewels.

The Tavernier Blue sketch
Image credit: wikipedia

Of the jewels Tavernier successfully brought back from India to France, a 118-carat (24 g) blue diamond is probably the most famous. This diamond came to be known as the Tavernier Blue, and was subsequently sold to Louis XIV of France in 1668. In 1678, Louis XIV commissioned the jewel to be re-cut to a stone weighing 67.125 carats (13.425 g), which became known as The French Blue. In 1792, during the French Revolution, The French Blue mysteriously disappeared.

The Hope Diamond
Image credit: Smithsonian Institution

Twenty years later, this stone re-emerged in London as the Hope Diamond, now weighing approximately 45.52 carats, and is currently housed at The Smithsonian Institution in Washington DC after the famous jeweler Harry Winston donated it to the institution. The Hope was graded by the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) as a VS1 clarity diamond of fancy dark grayish blue colour. Read more about the GIA’s diamond grading.

The parcel in which the Hope Diamond was shipped
Image credit: Smitsonian Institution

Most of the gems that remained in India while it was under British rule, were used to pay the taxes they exacted from the rulers and nobility. The few jewels that survived were passed down through the generations. However, with changes in consumer preferences, many old cut diamonds and older pieces of jewelry have been refashioned to match modern trends.

This article talks about some of the noble, ancient jewels that have survived this refashioning process.

Oh my Gold! (Diamond, Dollars)

June 14, 2012

Amit Kapoor of Saffronart explores the diamond industry outlook for India 

New Delhi: What does the sliding rupee mean to Indian diamond manufacturers/importers and to importers of gold? Today, these precious beauties are all imported to India (ironically, some of the worlds most famous diamonds originated in Indian mines) and significant changes in dollar price as well as import duties by successive Indian governments leaves a big impact.

This current article talks about the annual Jewelers Circular Keystone (commonly known as the JCK show) in Las Vegas where lower numbers of Indian were seen buying this time around. However, there is hope that the coming festive season in India will keep demand alive. It also includes an interesting note on the changes in value of these precious stones and metals. Also listen to Varda Shine, Chief Executive of DeBeers, talks about the diamond industry outlook for India, and in general, prices of diamonds, and DeBeers’ facility in Gaborone, Botswana.