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Wynyard Wilkinson on ‘Silver from the Indian Sub-Continent 1858-1947’ at Saffronart

May 18, 2013

Emily Jane Cushing shares a note on a talk given by Wynyard Wilkinson at Saffronart in London

Wynyard Wilkinson introducing the evenings event.

London: On Wednesday 15 May, before the preview of the new Saffronart exhibition ‘Silver From the Indian Sub-Continent 1858-1947’ author and Antique silver specialist Wynyard Wilkinson held an informative discussion on the decorative nature of the silver articles on display.

Wynyard Wilkinson describing ‘Cutch’ style silverware.

Despite the many aspects of silver production during the colonial period in India, given the diverse nature of decorative designs varying from region to region, Wilkinson touched on all the key styles. He noted the aesthetic features and purposes of various pieces, and underlined the relationships between geographical areas and designs, also noting that various regional designs often inter-link.

Wynyard Wilkinson discussing Kashmiri style silverware.

First, Madras “Swami Ware” was taken in to account. Wilkinson noted that despite the fact that ‘swami’ designs exhibited fine and intricately detailed ornamentation of Hindu deities and mythological figures, the style was a huge success in Europe and Great Britain. The most frequently depicted deities in this genre are Vishnu and Brahma riding their vahanas, or associated animals.

Bangalore Silver 'Swami-ware' Three Piece Tea-set by Krishniah Chetty c. 1900. http://www.saffronart.com/fixedjewelry/PieceDetails.aspx?iid=35977&a=

Bangalore Silver ‘Swami-ware’ Three Piece Tea-set by Krishniah Chetty
c. 1900. http://www.saffronart.com/fixedjewelry/PieceDetails.aspx?iid=35977&a=

After the Madras region, the discussion turned to Cutch silver, known for its attractive patterns of scrolling foliage intertwined with animals, birds and hunting scenes. The Cutch style was the most venerated Indian silverware in the late 19th century. Wilkinson particularly noted the resemblances to 17th century Portuguese pottery decorations, and distinctive similarities in the depiction of animal and bird figures with Persian decoration.

Next, Wilkinson focused on Kashmiri silver, highlighting the shawl pattern in particular. Taking inspiration from the prevalent Kashmiri weaving industry, this pattern illustrates vines of blossoms and leaves amid and between flowing scrolls; these scrolls sometimes lack detailing as to accentuate the distinction between the floral and the scroll aspects of the pattern.

Kashmir Parcel Gilt Set of Four Finger Bowls and Plates in 'Shawl' Pattern c. 1900. http://www.saffronart.com/fixedjewelry/PieceDetails.aspx?iid=35971&a=

Kashmir Parcel Gilt Set of Four Finger Bowls and Plates in ‘Shawl’ Pattern c. 1900. http://www.saffronart.com/fixedjewelry/PieceDetails.aspx?iid=35971&a=

Wilkinson then moved on to silverware produced in Lucknow. Designs from this region are most commonly recognized for their use of two patterns, the ‘jungle’ and the ‘hunting’ pattern. These patterns feature, although not to scale, forests of palm trees containing both animal and male figures, and bold male figures on elephant back pursuing wild animals or competing in sporting activities.

Lucknow Silver Swing-handle Basket in 'Hunting' Pattern c. 1890. http://www.saffronart.com/fixedjewelry/PieceDetails.aspx?iid=35991&a=

Lucknow Silver Swing-handle Basket in ‘Hunting’ Pattern c. 1890. http://www.saffronart.com/fixedjewelry/PieceDetails.aspx?iid=35991&a=

The eclectic diversity of the silversmithing in Bombay, as a result of immigrant artisans from many regions of India who brought with them a wide range of design and decorative influences, was also discussed. Wilkinson noted, when discussing specific pieces, the use of domestic picture design by Bombay artisans, as a conscious move away from Cutch style foliage designs.

To conclude his informative talk, Wynyard Wilkinson drew the audience’s attention to two unique oversize examples of Indian colonial silverware on display. First, a large hand-rinsing fountain produced in Cutch in 1910, and, second, a voluminous two-handled vase crafted in Madras in 1890.

The exhibition will be on view till May 31, 2013, from 11:00 am to 7:00 pm Monday to Friday, and Saturday by appointment at Saffronart, London.

The catalogue may also be viewed online.

Talk by Meera Kumar on Jewellery Traditions of India at Saffronart Delhi

April 18, 2013

Yamini Telkar shares a note on a talk Meera Kumar gave on Jewelry Traditions of India held recently at Saffronart Delhi in conjunction with the exhibition, Indian Period Jewelry

Meera Kumar speaking on traditional Indian jewelry at Saffronart, Delhi

Meera Kumar speaking on traditional Indian jewelry at Saffronart, Delhi

New Delhi: Meera Kumar, a petite but vivacious woman, recently gave an impassioned talk on traditions of jewelry in India. The occasion was the opening of the Exhibition of Period Indian Jewelry at Saffronart Delhi on April 11, 2013. Read more about the exhibition in this review by The Jewellery Editor.

Aurangzeb seated on The Peacock Throne, receives his son Prince Mu'azzam Image credit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peacock_Throne

Aurangzeb seated on The Peacock Throne, receives his son Prince Mu’azzam
Image credit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peacock_Throne

For the talk, it was a full house, and the audience listened enthralled as Meera took them through a journey exploring the splendors of Indian jewelry. She set the scene by vividly narrating a story from the court of the Mughal Emperor Jehangir as described by Sir Thomas Roe, an English Ambassador. She said that the descriptions of the jewelry in such accounts was not an exaggerated version of the exotic East but a reality.

A Gemset Fish Necklace Saffron Treasures from the Past Indian Period Jewellery, Saffronart Delhi

A Gemset Fish Necklace
Saffronart Treasures from the Past
Indian Period Jewellery, Saffronart Delhi

The exquisite miniature paintings she used to illustrate her talk reiterated the magnificence of the jewelry she described in all their details. The sighs from the audience, both men and women, spoke of the unparalleled beauty of the pieces.

periodj_13bb_02053_big

A Gemset Vishnu Pendant
Saffronart Treasures from the Past
Indian Period Jewellery, Saffronart Delhi

What was interesting was that all through Meera’s talk, she laid emphasis on the skill of the artists who created the pieces and not on the carat weight of the diamonds or emeralds they used. But of course, it is needless to say that for some of the pieces she described, the sheer size was what brought out the collective ‘oohs’ from the audience!

Meera spoke of the lyrical quality that went into the making of a piece, and explained in brief the various techniques that were involved in this process. She also brought to notice that jewelry was not limited to bodily adornments but extended to objects, which included mundane things like writing instruments and spoons. However, what surpassed all the pieces she showed, in sheer scale and spectacle, was the Peacock Throne, whose current location is unknown. The descriptions of the emeralds, rubies diamonds and pearls that adorned it, which she read out had everyone gasping in awe.

The talk was so engaging that it seemed it got over far too soon!

The Jewellery Editor on Saffronart’s Indian Period Jewelry Exhibition in Delhi

April 17, 2013

Manjari Sihare shares details of an article in The Jewellery Editor on Saffronart‘s Exhibition on Indian Period Jewelry in Delhi

An Important Ruby and Emerald Necklace

An Important Ruby and Emerald Necklace
Saffron Treasures from the Past
Indian Period Jewellery, Saffronart Delhi

New Delhi: As the demand for classical Indian art and jewelry continues to grow, Saffronart is currently featuring ‘Treasures from the Past’, a month of events focusing on Indian miniature paintings, antiquities and period jewelry. As part of this, Saffronart Delhi is currently showcasing an exhibition of Indian period jewelry. The exhibition was previewed on April 11th, 2013, with a talk,  an Introduction to Indian Period Jewelry by Meera Kumar, a renowned jewelry expert and co-author of Dance of the Peacock: Jewelry Traditions of India.

An Emerald and Diamond Pearl Pendant

An Emerald and Diamond Pearl Pendant
Saffron Treasures from the Past
Indian Period Jewellery, Saffronart Delhi

The exhibition  features approximately 30 pieces of exquisite hand crafted jewelry from various regions of India renowned for their intricate design work and skilled craftsmanship.  It also includes several jewels that were originally part of Indian royal collections, such as a beautifully carved emerald pendant with rose cut diamonds, a stunning neckpiece accented with large pearls with a surmount of rubies and emeralds.

A CEREMONIAL PEARL AND SPINEL 'NATH' OR NOSE RING

A CEREMONIAL PEARL AND SPINEL ‘NATH’ OR NOSE RING
Saffron Treasures from the Past
Indian Period Jewellery, Saffronart Delhi

The Jewellery Editor profiled this exhibition recently. Read more.

Strung in Gems

March 2, 2013

Amit Kapoor writes about a new collection of gemset necklaces featured on The Story.

New Delhi: The necklace is a piece of jewelry that has a long history of being worn by both men and women. Necklaces were often used as a way of making distinctions among various cultures.

Historians and archaeologists have discovered that the necklace originated maybe forty thousand years before it was originally believed. Archaeologists believe that the oldest known finding was from 30,000 B.C. It was made of stones, animal teeth, bones, claws and shells strung onto thread, similar to the concept of today’s necklaces.

Later, in 2500 B.C., necklaces began to be made from precious metals like gold. The ancient Egyptians made necklaces ranging in complexity from simple strings of beads to highly complicated patterns set with a variety of precious and semiprecious materials. They also had the broad collar and pectoral type of necklaces that both men and women wore, especially the wealthy and royalty. These necklaces were often richly ornamented and were an important part of Egyptian attire. Many of these necklaces were buried with their owner when they died and were excavated several centuries later providing critical information about this ancient civilization.

Gold was abundant in the ancient Greek Empire, particularly during the rule of Alexander the Great. The ancient Greeks used gold to fashion necklaces and many other types of jewelry for many centuries. During the first century A.D., the Roman style of jewelry, which used gemstones cut in circular or rectangular shapes, became popular.

Later on, it became a fashion for women to wear several necklaces at once. The greater this number, the higher the level of wealth or class it indicated. For a few years, the popularity of necklaces waned until the late 14th century, when they regained popularity.

Now, necklaces are popular among all cultures and peoples. Necklaces are worn for a variety of reasons. The most widespread of course is personal ornamentation. Another important reason people wear necklaces is for their religious significance. Necklaces with images of Saints or a simple cross are among the most widely used in this category.

Necklaces have been around for many, many years and will most likely remain so as they are a versatile type of jewel that can constantly be reinvented to stay trendy. They have been made from everything from animal bones and teeth to rare gemstones, from shells and beads to metals and resins.

Adorned, a collection currently featured on The Story includes an eclectic selection of necklaces set with unique gemstones like variously coloured quartz, agate, turquoise, labradorite, fluorite and ammonite in quirky designs.

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Quartz: A Varied and Versatile Gem

January 15, 2013

In conjunction with the collection Mogul – Jewels by SYNA on The Story, Amit Kapoor of Saffronart shares a note on Quartz and its properties

Being very simple in its chemical composition and structure, Quartz is one of the most common mineral species found on earth’s crust. It is made up of Silicon and Oxygen (SiO2), both of which are abundant. Under precise conditions, Quartz may form in various colours (as a result of various impurities), including Amethyst (purple), Citrine (orange to yellow), Smoky Quartz (grey-brown), Lemon Quartz (yellow-green), Rose Quartz (pink) and Rock Crystal (colourless), to name a few.

Throughout the world, varieties of quartz have been, since antiquity, the most commonly used minerals in the making of jewelry and gem stone carvings. Quartz is known to have been used as gemstone during Greek times; the ancient Greeks associated the mineral with Bacchus, the god of wine, and believed that wearing an amethyst prevented intoxication.

Unusually, Quartz crystals have piezoelectric properties: which means they develop an electric potential upon the application of mechanical stress. A common piezoelectric use of quartz today is as a crystal oscillator. Quartz clocks and wristwatches are familiar devices that use the mineral.

Today, these gem varieties are used extensively in jewelry in a wide array of colours, shapes, and designs. The current collection on The Story called Mogul – Jewels by SYNA includes an extensive variety of the gem species Quartz: a small treasure to own.

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