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Posts filed in Jewellery and Timepieces

FLORAL MOTIFS IN SOUTH INDIAN JEWELRY

April 28, 2014

Kanika Pruthi of Saffronart highlights some of the prevalent plant and flower motifs in South Indian jewelry

NEW YORK: In Indic religions and philosophy reference to plants, fruits and flowers abound signifying the relationship man shares with nature. Since antiquity myths and iconography pertaining to flora and fauna has been a central part of Indian belief systems and their actual use and their reference in present day rituals and faith based practices proves their continued significance in Indian society. Plants and flowers are often time associated with deities, presented as offerings in rituals and symbolically represented in daily life through various means.
South Indian jewelry present a ripe example of the continued reference to plants and flowers in Indian faith systems and the development of intricate motifs laden with meaning, still in use in present day India. Our current exhibition “Jewels from South India” display an array of motifs associated with plants and flowers.
A Jasmine Bud Necklace

A Jasmine Bud Necklace

The jasmine bud necklace, known as mullai arumby malaii, adapts the tender buds of the fragrant flower in its design. The result is a piece of jewelry that conjures images of delicate and prestine creations of nature, the carnal scent of the auspicious flowers with erotic connotations enhancing the beauty of the wearer. There are many myths that chronicle the mystique of this tender flower.
Manga malai necklace

Manga malai necklace

Another common motif in South Indian design is the Manga Malai– the necklace of mangoes. Similar to the persian booti or paisley design, mango tree has long held mythic associations in Indian society. The mango tree is believed to be a wish-fulfilling tree and a symbol of fertility and long life. Mango leaves which are believed to hold protective powers are still used in actual rituals in India, also commonly found strung across the entrance of an house. Stylized motifs of mango have been adapted in South Indian jewelry, lending not only a meaning but decorative elements to the jewelry pattern.
The rudraksha bead is often times adapted in design of beads or used as it is in South Indian jewelry. It is believed to be sacred to Shiva and is commonly worn by both men and women with Shivite affiliations all over India. They are believed to hold the creative energy of Shiva, bestowing the wearer with similar powers. Symbolically the seed is believed to represent Shiva’s eye (Rudra=Shiva & Aksha=Eyes). Myths abound that reference the rudraksha.  One of them tells of how Shiva went into the state of penance for 1000 years in order to destroy evil in the world and when when he finally opened his eyes a drop of his tear on the ground resulted in the germination of the tree bearing the rudraksha fruit. The seeds are considered highly auspicious and are adapted in designs in multiple ways.
Dumroo

Dumroo

A gemset Jhumki or earrings

A gemset Jhumki or earrings

A gemset necklace

A gemset necklace

A closer look at jewels from our collections show the many ways floral motifs are adapted in design- their presence abounds. From three petaled blossoming flowers, to floral vines adapted in design, the significance of rendering plants and flowers in jewelry can be traced back to centuries and continues to the present day- a melange of traditional beliefs and modern practices.

Four Animals You’d Spot In South Indian Jewellery

April 14, 2014

Most already know that animal motifs aren’t included in jewellery simply to beautify. So what do these animals mean? Rashmi looks at how religion and symbolism extend to South Indian finery to form a part of daily life.

 

Animal motifs have been consistently popular down South. I’m not just pulling this truism out of thin air, though. The timing is perfect. The folks at Saffronart Delhi are holding an exhibition, “Jewels from South India” till April 30. For those who know their South Indian jewellery, you’re already familiar with the numerous stylised animals and gods you find on necklaces, earrings, rings, bracelets etc. Today, I’ll be looking at four animals, beginning with…

1. The Peacock

South Indian pendants effortlessly imbibe the motif of the peacock, and it’s not just because of the bird’s beauty and elegance. Talking about why the peacock is so important in Indian culture is almost trite—there’s no dearth of representations and allusions to the bird. In South Indian (especially Tamil) mythology, it is the vahana (vehicle) of Murugan/Kartikeya, the God of war, victory, love and wisdom. Readers familiar with the works of Raja Ravi Verma will recall his paintings of Kartikeya seated on a peacock with his two consorts, Valli and Deivayanai, and of Goddess Saraswati seated, while a peacock looks on. Known to spread its plumage at the start of spring, the peacock also gains metaphorical importance: it symbolises the blossoming of love.

2. The Parrot

In Hindu mythology, the parrot is associated with Lord Kama, the god of love. The bird is found as a motif in South Indian temples. Parrots symbolise fertility and desire—definitely worthy of imbibing in jewellery designs.

3. The Fish

The fish gains significance from the tale of Lord Vishnu’s very first avatar: the matsya. As a giant fish, Lord Vishnu saves Manu, believed to be the creator of mankind in Hinduism, by navigating his ship through a great deluge. After the deluge is over, Manu begins life afresh and propagates the race of humans. The fish is thus seen as an emblem of rebirth. The medieval temple of Koneswaram in Trincomalee, Tamil Nadu, which was destroyed in the 17th century, housed a shrine dedicated to Matsya.

A gowrishankaram pendant flanked by two fish motifs Source: http://www.saffronart.com/fixedjewelry/PieceDetails.aspx?iid=39818&pt=2&eid=3703

A Gowrishankaram Pendant flanked by Two Fish Motifs
Source: http://www.saffronart.com/fixedjewelry/PieceDetails.aspx?iid=39818&pt=2&eid=3703

4. The Elephant

Those who know their Hindu iconography know that the elephant is one of the most revered of animals. Lord Ganapati, the bringer of prosperity, immediately comes to mind. So does Airavat, the vahana of Indra, God of Heaven. Renowned historian and fine art consultant Dr. Usha R. Bala Krishnan, and writer Meera Sushil Kumar note that animals like the elephant are “…quintessential elements of jewellery design particularly in south India….[They are] regarded as an epiphany of God” (Dance of the Peacock: Jewellery Traditions of India, p244). The elephant is linked to royalty, abundance, richness and fertility.

 

These animal motifs are important as religion and symbolic references to romance are often intertwined.  With other motifs, the function is more specific. Fruit and flower motifs are symbolic of romance. Motifs of Gods take on a purely religious function.

More to follow soon, so keep dropping by.

Closing of Elegant Design

March 27, 2014

Elizabeth Prendiville of Saffronart New York covers the results of the popular Elegant Design 24 hour sale.

 

New York: Tuesday March 25th marked the opening of Elegant Design, Saffronart’s premier vintage interior design sale. The sale was immediately followed by its twin auction, Works on Paper, opening on March 26th. Elegant Design featured 109 important vintage items in interior and decorative art including rugs, silver, and various furniture pieces. Each lot was carefully selected to represent the most pivotal periods in the decorative arts both in India and worldwide. An example of this can be seen in the campaign furniture, depicting the specific needs of the British army in the 18th and 19th century.

 

Spanning the most pivotal eras in interior design history, each lot also featured a variety of exquisite mediums and materials. The sale featured pieces made from a variety of rare woods such as rosewood, teakwood, mahogany and padauk wood. Graceful, small items such as A Rare Matched Pair of Kutch Silver Tea Cups (Lot 68) and large statement pieces such as An Indian Mother Of Pearl Door (Lot 105) all displayed a variety of excellent aesthetic detail appropriate for any space. Exhibiting equal parts beauty and function, each lot was an exceptional addition for any collection and home.

A STUNNING AND HIGHLY IMPORTANT EBONY HEADBOARD http://www.saffronart.com/customauctions/AuctionResults.aspx?eid=3658

A STUNNING AND HIGHLY IMPORTANT EBONY HEADBOARD http://www.saffronart.com/customauctions/AuctionResults.aspx?eid=3658

Due to the wide range of beautiful vintage pieces the sale received extremely positive media coverage from a variety of media publications including Elle India, ArtDaily and DNA India. The top ten valued items from the sale ranged from furniture to silver flatware to lighting fixtures. The highest winning lots included A Magnificent and Rare Art Deco Chandelier (Lot 25) coming in at $18,772 and A Stunning and Highly Important Ebony Sideboard (Lot 33) with a winning value of $9,447. Overall the most popular and sought after items varied greatly in materials, geography and design history. The sale concluded with sixty-six lots sold and a total winning value of $176,469. It is clear from the warm reception and enthusiasm for these beautiful items that vintage design and décor is still a lovely and timeless edition to any buyer’s collection.

 

To learn more about some of the items featured in Elegant Design visit Campaign Furniture: Historical Function and Design and click here for a full analysis of the overall sale.

Jewels at The Oscars

March 5, 2014

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All images and text from “A Dozen Jewels From The Oscars” by the National Jeweler.

Bedazzled by JAR

November 21, 2013

Shradha Ramesh reports on ‘Jewels by JAR’ exhibited at Metropolitan Museum of Art

New York:  In 1978, New York born Joel Arthur Rosenthal well known as JAR opened Place Vendôme in Paris. Since then the stalwart continues to rein the contemporary artists of gems. Dedicated to creating the finest of finest dazzling jewels in the world, Place Vendôme is the epicenter of his creation. It is one of his seminal endeavors and key entry point into the jewelry industry. Known for his detail oriented eccentric craftsmanship Rosenthal follows a labor intensive, intricate design process called the pavé technique – a process of placing small stones besides each other on a metal alloy. His creation is lauded not just for its craftsmanship and quality but also his selection of themes and colors. With an overarching theme of ephemeral changes in flowers – buds, bloom or falling petals and butterflies his brooches and rings are a unique sculptural rendition. During the press preview, curator Jane Adlin describes his work “I think Joel is best known for his technique of pavé. He’s discriminating but indiscriminate in his use of gemstones,” Adlin said. “So he’ll mix very, very fine perfectly cut, perfectly flawless gemstones with some that are not. He will use lesser quality stones. He will use lesser-known stones. But the outcome is this extraordinary piece of jewelry, which if you just put it on your dresser or your coffee table it would in fact be a piece of sculpture.”

Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy of JAR, Paris Raspberry Brooch, 2011, Rubies, diamonds, bronze, silver, gold, and platinum. Collection of Sien M. Chew

Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy of JAR, Paris
Raspberry Brooch, 2011,
Rubies, diamonds, bronze, silver, gold, and platinum.
Collection of Sien M. Chew. Image Credit: http://jewelrynewsnetwork.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/jewels-by-jar-dazzling-display-of.html

In 35 years of making jewelry Rosenthal’s works rarely did he display his work in public. Being opinioned and structured he tends to focus more on quality and the aesthetic value. With particular buyer in mind his craftsmen from Switzerland and France create 70 to 80 pieces a year, Rosenthal feels “Getting the right things on the right people is part of making those things.” He is specific about who wears his jewels, he chooses his seller and sometimes refuses to sell his jewel if the design doesn’t suit the wearer. Rosenthal’s clientele are selective group of ardent connoisseurs and his collection cater to them to name few – Elizabeth Taylor, Elle Macpherson, Barbara Walter, Ann Getty, Mary Pinault and Jo Carole. Having said that, in recent years his auction results have been sky rocketing, his jewels sell for twice the price at auction resale than when they are bought first hand.

Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy of JAR, Paris Lilac Brooches, 2001 Diamonds, lilac sapphires, garnets, aluminum, silver, and gold. Private collection

Photograph by Jozsef Tari. Courtesy of JAR, Paris
Lilac Brooches, 2001
Diamonds, lilac sapphires, garnets, aluminum, silver, and gold.
Private collection. Image Credit: http://jewelrynewsnetwork.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/jewels-by-jar-dazzling-display-of.html

And for the first time Rosenthal will be represented in United States at the Meteropolitan Museum of Art. A retrospective exhibit the collections are some of his finest creation ranging from earring, brooches and watches lent by private collectors. “JAR has been creating masterworks for over 35 years and hasn’t had a major solo exhibition in the U.S.,” associate curator Jane Adlin says.

A repertoire of 400 jewels designed by Joel Arthur Rosenthal will be on display at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, starting November 20, 2013 the exhibit Jewels of JAR will be on display until 9th March 2013.

To learn more about the exhibition Click Here.