State of the Art

The Saffronart Blog

Month: October 2012

Art Deco and India’s Royal Families

October 26, 2012

Nishad Avari of Saffronart on the status of Art Deco in India’s royal collections 

Mumbai: In the nineteenth century, first under the East India Company and then as part of the British Empire when Queen Victoria assumed the title of Empress of India, not only did the Indian princes find themselves “…increasingly having to accommodate and entertain Europeans on equal terms,” but they also started developing a taste for the Western luxury goods and standards of living they now had a chance to experience.

By the 1920s, “Within one generation of western education the lifestyle of India’s princes were transformed and they began to wear western clothes, engage in western games and eat western food…those princes who could afford it abandoned their traditional residences for new, substantial palaces principally designed by western architects…[and] were built to accommodate western-style living, with its specific rooms for dining, sleeping, socializing, sport and recreation. The western-style elevated furniture and domestic articles needed to outfit these new vast palaces were readily supplied by British firms such as Maple & Co. and Waring & Gillow, both of which had showrooms in India… For Western firms making luxury goods, be it F & C Osler, Baccarat, Cartier, Boucheron, Louis Vuitton, Holland & Holland or Rolls Royce, Indian princes proved to be substantial clients and at certain times, such as during the Great Depression, were the mainstay of business” (Amin Jaffar, Made for Maharajas, Lustre Press/Roli Books, Mumbai, 2007, p. 15. 18).

Many of the items created by these firms for Indian royals between the 1920s and 1940s were crafted in the Art Deco style that had taken Europe by storm at the time. As a result, members of India’s royal families came to be regarded as some of the greatest patrons of Art Deco architecture, interiors, jewelry and accessories were.

From entire palaces constructed in the style, most notably in Morvi, Jodhpur and Indore, to highly customised jewelry, furniture and accessories purchased from European firms like Cartier, Boucheron and Louis Vuitton, India’s maharajas were captivated by the glamour, elegance and modernity that Art Deco represented as these were all principles central to their lifestyles.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

To read more about the history of the Art Deco movement, click here.

Learn more about our Art Deco Auction auction.

Cartier’s Timekeeping Legacy

October 25, 2012

Manjari Sihare of Saffronart explores Cartier’s timekeeping history

New York: This week Saffronart is offering a unique selection of watches in its Autumn Online Auction of Fine Jewels & Watches. Some exquisite highlights of the collection include the Ladies Bagnoire, Men’s Pasha Steel Wristwatch and the Tank Reversible Basculante, all from Cartier.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Of all luxury brands, perhaps one which most people are familiar with is Cartier. The firm established in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, an apprentice to Parisian jeweler Adolphe Picard, who took over the business at the death of his master. In less than 6 years, by 1853, young Louis-François became a favorite of Napoleon III’s cousin Princess Mathilde, who was single handedly instrumental in his entry into Parisian society. For most part of the 19th century, Cartier was strictly a jeweler. It was not until the reigns of the company passed on to his sons, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques that the Paris jeweler’s name became synonymous with wristwatches.

In 1904, Brazilian aviation pioneer, Alberto-Santos Dumont complained to his friend Louis Cartier about the non–reliability of pocket watches which prompted Louis to craft a more reliable alternative. This was the birth of the Santos wristwatch which is considered to be the first men’s wristwatch to be created. A flat wristwatch with a square bezel, the legacy this pioneering design can still be seen in modern Cartier watches. In 1907, Edmond Jaeger and Cartier signed a contract under which all Jaeger’s movement designs for a period of 15 years would be exclusive to Cartier.

The next watches to be introduced in the range were the Baignoire and Tortue in 1912 followed by the Tank model in 1917. All three models are still in production today. This is the essence of Cartier, what makes the firm unique in so many ways. It is one of the few brands that still include versions of its most initial models in its current lineup. The pieces are literally timeless, as new models usually carry the DNA of vintage Cartier watches, constantly improved, slightly adjusted and re-released. Earlier this year (14 December 2011 to 12 February 2012), the ArtScience Museum at Marina Bay Sands in Singapore hosted the exhibition “Cartier Time Art” , the largest collection of historical Cartier timepieces ever displayed in public. Conceived by award-winning designer Tokujin Yoshioka, the exhibition aimed to take visitors on a journey to the heart of Cartier watch-making, and included 158 historical timepieces from objects dating to the origins of the firm to the present day. Bernard Fornas, CEO of Cartier International speaks about the show in this short preview.

 

World Famous Sapphires

October 24, 2012

Amy Lin of Saffronart explores some of the most renowned sapphires in the world

In my previous post, I wrote about the significance of Kashmir sapphires. Here, I’m going to expand the geography and compare some of the best sapphires in the world. While the best source for sapphires is Kashmir in India, other important ones are Burma (Myanmar) and Sri Lanka.

In our current October Jewelry and Watches Sale, we feature a striking 5.81 carat pink sapphire and diamond ring from Burma. It is important to note that not all sapphires are blue but come in various shades including pinks, yellows, oranges and more. To learn more about sapphire formation, visit our jewelry guide.

Below are some of the world’s most famous sapphires for your viewing pleasure. Enjoy!

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Hill’s Kashmir Pendant:

Owned by railroad mogul James J. Hill in the late 19th century, this 22.66-carat sapphire surrounded by diamonds is a perfect example of a Kashmir sapphire with its velvety luster. Image Credit: http://jewelry-blog.internetstones.com/famous-gemstones/hills-kashmir-sapphire

Rockefeller Sapphire:

The Rockefeller sapphire belonged to John D. Rockefeller Jr., the only heir of  the Rockefeller empire. It is said that the stone was acquired from the Indian Maharaja Mir Osman Ali Khan, the last Nizam of Hyderabad, in 1934. The 62.02 carat gemstone is internally flawless and retains a deep cornflower blue. Image Credit: http://www.forbes.com/2001/03/28/0328pow.html

Stuart Sapphire:

Part of the Royal Crown Jewels of Queen Elizabeth II, this sapphire was originally acquired by Robert II of the House of Stuarts in the 14th century. The Stuart sapphire rests on the crown band, weighing 104 carats with a cabochon-cut. It is one of the most historically significant sapphires. Image Credit: http://www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/31701/the-imperial-state-crown

Logan Blue Sapphire:

Named after Mrs. John A. Logan after she donated the sapphire to the Smithsonian Institute, this cushion-cut stone is originally from Sri Lanka. Weighing 422.99 carats with no internal flaws, it is the second largest sapphire in the world. Image Credit: http://jewelry-blog.internetstones.com/famous-gemstones/logan-blue-sapphireImage

Queen Marie of Romania Sapphire:

The 478.68 carat, cushion cut, cornflower blue sapphire was Cartier’s prize jewel at the 1919 Autumn Exhibition in San Sebastian, Spain. It was admired by royalty from all over the world. Prince Ferdinand bought the sapphire pendant for his mother, Queen Marie of Romania, which she later worn to his coronation in 1922. Image Credit: http://www.kings1912.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2012/09/Queen_Mary_of_Romania_sapphire.jpg

Blue Giant of the Orient:

At 466 carats, the Blue Giant is the largest faceted sapphire in the world. The gemstone first made headlines in Sri Lanka in 1907 but mysteriously disappeared for almost a century until recently. It is often called a Kashmir sapphire not because of its origin but it’s corn flower blue that resembles the best sapphires in the world.  Image Credit: http://yukotravels.blog.com

Mona von Bismarck Sapphire Necklace:

The 98.57 carat sapphire necklace is a great example of Art Deco design. It’s set in platinum and accented with diamonds and sapphires. This Cartier necklace was acquired by the American socialite Mona vin Bismarck who married Count Eduard von Bismarck in the late 1930s. Image Credit: http://mineralsciences.si.edu/collections/gem_gallery/c/bismarckSapphire.htm

Star of India:

The Star of India is one of the biggest sapphires in the world at 563.35 carats. It was donated to the American Museum of Natural History by J.P. Morgan in the early 20th century. In 1964, the sapphire was famously stolen from the Museum and turned up in a Miami locker several months later. Image Credit: http://jewelry-blog.internetstones.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/04/star-of-lanka-royal-ontariomuseum.jpg

Royal Sapphire Engagement Ring:

This famous royal engagement ring was first worn by Princess Diana. It was purchased through Garrard Jewelers and has made sapphire engagements popular ever since. Prince William presented his mother’s ring to Kate Middleton at their engagement last year as a commemorative and romantic gesture. Image Credit:http://www.fashionfame.com/community/topic.php?id=2207

Pearls: The Queen of Gems

October 23, 2012

Amy Lin of Saffronart explores the origins of pearls in relation to some of the opulent pearls featured in this month’s Auction of Fine Jewelry & Watches

Lot 44: A NATURAL PEARL AND DIAMOND BROOCH
Centering on an off-round natural pearl, weighing 14.70 carats, to a surround of collet-set natural diamonds
Auction of Fine Jewels & Watches (OCT 30-31, 2012)

New York: From Cleopatra drinking a pearl dissolved in a cocktail to prove Egypt’s worth, to Queen Elizabeth I adorning her garments with pearls as the symbol of feminine virtue, these illustrious jewels have rightfully claimed their title as the “Queen of Gems.” Besides their timeless elegance and seductive luster, the origins of pearls are miracles in themselves.

Lot 45: A FIVE-STRAND NATURAL PEARL NECKLACE
Designed as five gently graduated strands of 675 natural pearls, weighing approximately 545.12 carats in total, and measuring between approximately 8.49 mm and 3.62 mm, joined by a clasp set to the center with an oval-shaped diamond, weighing approximately 2.78 carats, mounted in gold
Auction of Fine Jewels & Watches (OCT 30-31, 2012)

Saffronart is pleased to feature several important pearls in our upcoming Auction of Fine Jewels & Watches, including a majestic natural pearl and diamond brooch. At 14.70 carats, its impressive size is a rare beauty, with a garland of diamonds that enhances its luminosity. Another important piece is a five strand natural pearl necklace fashioned out of 675 natural pearls, weighing approximately 545.12 carats in total, recalling some of the legendry strings of pearls worn by royals all over the world.

The pearl is the one of the few gems that are cultivated in a living organism. Pearls are usually divided into two broad categories, natural and cultured.  Natural pearls are formed when foreign objects enter a mollusk such as an oyster or mussel. Over time, the organisms coat the objects with a substance called nacre and build up layers until a pearl is formed. Cultured pearls are created in a similar way, except the foreign objects are introduced manually into mollusks in pearl farms. It is much more difficult for pearls to form in nature given different environmental factors; therefore natural pearls are valued much higher than cultured pearls.

Pearls in Oyster Shell
Image Credit: http://jasonofbh.com/?p=5700

It is a common misconception to believe that pearls are perfectly round. Pearls, especially large ones, are rarely rounded. They can be off round or baroque, which refers to irregular and unique shapes. In addition, the size of the pearl depends on how long it remains in the organism, the chemistry and the temperature of the water. Large, round pearls are extremely rare, both natural and cultured, often commanding high prices.

The captivating elegance of pearls has attracted both kings and queens around the world, and India is no exception. Surprisingly, the biggest pearl patrons in India were not its queens, but its long succession of Maharajas. One of the most divine pieces in the collection of the royal family of Baroda, for example, was the seven-strand pearl necklace known as the “Baroda Pearl Necklace.”  Documented by distinguished photographers since its creation in the 19th century, it was also published in George Frederick Kunz’s seminal 1908 volume, “The Book of Pearl.” The necklace once again attracted international attention when Maharaja Pratapsingh Rao Gaekwad was photographed by Henri Cartier Bresson wearing it.

Here are some more pieces featuring pearls in the upcoming auction. 

To learn more about pearls, browse through our Jewelry Guide. 

Maharajah Pratapsingh Rao Gaekwad wearing the Baroda pearl necklace. Maharani Sita Devi making adjustments to the necklace.
Photograph By: Henri Cartier Bresson
Image Credit: http://www.internetstones.com/baroda-pearl-necklace-maharajah-khande-rao-gaekwad.html

Queens Museum of Art presents After Midnight: Indian Modern and Contemporary Art, 1947-1997

October 22, 2012


Manjari Sihare of Saffronart shares details of a forthcoming conference on modern & contemporary Indian art in New York

 New York: In 2014-15, the Queens Museum of Art will present the exhibition The Rising Phoenix: A Dialogue Between Modern and Contemporary Indian Art (working title), organized by Dr. Arshiya Lokhandwala.  In advance of the exhibition, the Queens Museum in conjunction with New York University’s Asian Pacific American Institute presents After Midnight: Indian Modern and Contemporary Art, 1947-1997, a two-day symposium on October 26-27, 2012 at New York University.

After Midnight: Indian Modern and Contemporary Art, 1947- 1997, takes its impetus from the exhibition. The symposium contemplates and compares two critical moments of Indian history: the first, the period of post-Indian independence that began in 1947, one of the most critical moments in the history of Indian modern art which saw the rise of the Progressives Artists Group; and the second, the globalization of Indian art that started in 1997 with a younger generation of artists including Shilpa Gupta, Jitish Kallat, and Sharmila Samant, presented with opportunities to travel, scholarships and residencies abroad that expanded their horizons.  This period was also when Indian artists started showing in large-scale international exhibitions and biennales. The interval between 1947 and 1997 also marks first fifty years of India’s independence, a significant period in Indian history.

The symposium will undertake an examination of a space between these two fractured moments, Progressives/Modern and the contemporary artists, and will also address the larger question of modernity found and viewed from different geo-political perspectives that belong to Africa, Asia and Latin America to counter the narrative of the west.

For a detailed program schedule, visit the Queens Museum website. 

Watch this space for more updates on this important Symposium.